Induction Cooktop in Israel: What to Check in Your Electrical Supply Before Buying

Before choosing an induction cooktop, check the connection size on your electricity bill: with single-phase, choose a single-phase cooktop or one with power limiting; with three-phase, you can have a full-power cooktop.

Where do you see the connection size? According to a consumer guide by TheMarker (an Israeli business daily), the connection size appears on the electricity bill, at the top of the second page, on the line for the KVA capacity charge. Sizes are written as number of phases times amps, e.g. 1×25, 1×40, 3×25 or 3×40. A 1×40 connection equals about 9.2 kVA, and 3×25 about 17.3.

Why does it matter for induction? A full induction cooktop draws up to ⁦7.2–⁦7.4 kW⁩⁩ when all zones run at full power. On a 1×40 connection that’s almost everything the apartment can draw, so running the oven, AC and water heater (dud) at the same time will trip the main breaker. That’s why manufacturers offer three types:

• Simple single-phase cooktops: about ⁦3.5–⁦3.7 kW⁩⁩, plugging into a 16-amp outlet. For example, the Bosch PUE611BB5Y, Sauter SHI6510 and Hyundai HAS-I⁦404-1⁩P per their product pages.
• Switchable single or three-phase cooktops: ⁦7.2–⁦7.4 kW⁩⁩, which on single-phase plug into a 25 or 32 amp sikon outlet. For example, the Electrolux EIV644 and Samsung NZ64B5067YH.
• Three-phase-only cooktops: for example, the Bosch PIE611BB5E, which per its product page requires a three-phase connection.

Power limiting: some models let you set a cap. According to the Samsung NZ64N7757FK product page, on a 16-amp outlet power is limited to 3,000 watts, and on a 20-amp outlet to 4,000 watts. The Bosch PUE611BB5Y has Power Management, which lets you set a consumption cap.

Bottom line: a single-phase connection doesn’t rule out induction. It only determines which model and how much power you get at once.

Single-phase induction: what do you actually get? Many people search for exactly this, and it’s a good question. A ⁦3.7 kW⁩ single-phase cooktop splits power between zones. When one zone is on booster, the others get less. For everyday cooking, a pot of rice and a frying pan, you won’t notice. During Shabbat prep, with four big pots going at once, it will be slower than a full cooktop. For most families it’s a reasonable compromise, especially when the alternative is upgrading the connection with the Israel Electric Corporation.

New apartments: many new apartments have a three-phase connection, but a suitable electrical point isn’t always prepared in the kitchen. Even in a three-phase apartment, check that there’s a dedicated outlet for the cooktop and a three-phase breaker in the panel before ordering a three-phase-only cooktop.

Simple single-phase cooktops plug into a 16-amp outlet, full cooktops on single-phase need a dedicated 25 or 32 amp sikon outlet, and on three-phase they connect to a dedicated three-phase outlet; in all cases a licensed electrician does the hookup.

According to an article on ynet (a major Israeli news site) in partnership with a contractors’ site, a three-phase hookup means installing a dedicated line straight from the panel, with no other appliances on it, a three-phase outlet and a three-phase breaker in the panel. The electrician must use wires of a gauge suited to the load. After installation, check grounding, power, child lock and heating speed.

What to ask the electrician:

• Check the apartment’s connection size and the condition of the panel.
• Recommend the outlet type: regular 16 amps, 25/32 amp sikon, or three-phase.
• Install a dedicated line for the cooktop, not shared with a built-in oven or dishwasher.
• Make sure the breaker in the panel matches the cooktop’s current.
• Check grounding and correct operation after installation.

Upgrading the connection: if you want to move to three-phase, according to the same consumer guide, you start with a licensed electrician and order the work through the Israel Electric Corporation’s ordering system; for upgrades up to 3×40 there’s a fast track of up to 30 working days. The payment to the Electric Corporation is regulated, and the guide estimates that moving one apartment from 1×25 to 3×25 costs about ₪3,115 before VAT, not including the electrician’s fee and inspection. A switch to three-phase up to 3×40 can be paid in up to 36 installments.

Important: never connect a ⁦7 kW⁩ cooktop to a power strip or a regular outlet. It’s dangerous and may also void the warranty.

What is a sikon outlet? It’s a common trade name in Israel for a high-current single-phase industrial outlet, used for appliances such as cooktops, large ACs and water heaters. Its shape differs from a regular outlet, so you can’t plug another appliance into it by mistake. The product pages of the Electrolux EIV644 and EIV83443BW state that on single-phase they connect to a 25 or 32 amp sikon outlet. (Israel’s grid is 230V/50Hz, so a US 240V/60Hz cooktop isn’t a drop-in option.)

Induction cooktops are fast, safe and easy to clean; gas cooktops are cheap and work with any pot; electric ceramic cooktops cost less than induction but are slow and less efficient.

Gas cooktops: still the most common in Israel. Advantages: low price, work with any pot, and visual control of the flame. Disadvantages: cleaning burner heads and grates, an open flame, and the need for a gas connection and periodic inspections. On price comparison sites we saw Midea gas cooktops from about ₪300, and Bosch gas cooktops at about ₪⁦1,750–2,000.⁩

Electric (ceramic) cooktops: a glass surface with heating elements underneath. They heat up and cool down slowly, and the surface stays hot for a long time. On comparison sites we saw Zanussi and Candy models at about ₪⁦770–1,650.⁩ They’re also searched for as electric or ceramic hobs.

Induction cooktops: a magnetic field heats the pot directly, and the surface only gets warm from the pot. Advantages: very fast heating, precise control, easy cleaning, no flame, and a child lock. Disadvantages: higher price, the need for magnetic cookware, and electrical requirements.

Quick decision table:

• Lowest price: gas.
• Apartment without a gas connection, or switching from gas: induction.
• Small children at home: induction, thanks to the relatively cool surface and lock.
• Easiest cleaning: induction.
• Lots of old non-magnetic pots: gas, or induction with a budget for new cookware.

A middle option: combination cooktops with gas and induction zones. On comparison sites we saw an AEG model like this, but at a very high price (about ₪⁦6,200–8,500⁩).

Actual electricity use: induction is more efficient than ceramic, because the heat is generated in the pot rather than in an element that heats the glass. A maximum of ⁦7.4 kW⁩ doesn’t mean that’s what you’ll use: in normal cooking the zones run at medium power most of the time. The bill difference compared with gas depends on gas and electricity prices and your cooking habits, so we won’t give a single number here.

A ⁦60 cm⁩ induction cooktop costs about ₪⁦1,000–3,600⁩ in Israel, and ⁦80 cm⁩ and larger models about ₪⁦2,600–5,000,⁩ based on store and price comparison site prices in November 2026.

Ranges we saw:

• Bosch PUE611BB5Y (single-phase, ⁦60 cm⁩): about ₪⁦1,600–2,630.⁩
• Bosch PIE611BB5E (three-phase, ⁦60 cm⁩): about ₪⁦1,490–2,530.⁩
• Electrolux EIV644 (single/three-phase, ⁦60 cm⁩): about ₪⁦2,100–2,300.⁩
• Samsung NZ64B5067YH (Flex, ⁦60 cm⁩): about ₪⁦3,400–3,600.⁩
• Electrolux EIV83443BW (⁦80 cm⁩): about ₪⁦3,150–3,350.⁩
• On comparison sites we also saw ⁦80 cm⁩ models from Bosch, Electrolux, AEG and Siemens in a range of about ₪⁦2,600–5,000.⁩
• Portable ⁦1–2⁩ zone induction cooktops (Midea, Morphy Richards, Xiaomi) cost about ₪⁦300–800⁩ and work as an extra, not as a main cooktop.

Watch the related costs:

• An electrician for a dedicated line and suitable outlet.
• Adjusting the countertop opening if you’re replacing a cooktop of a different size.
• Magnetic cookware, if your current pots don’t work.
• Upgrading to three-phase, if you choose to.

Why is a three-phase model sometimes cheaper than a single-phase one? Because the difference is mainly in internal wiring and power limiting, not materials. Don’t choose on price alone: the model has to match your apartment’s electrical supply.

How to choose within your budget? If your supply is single-phase and you don’t plan to change it, the simplest choice is a single-phase cooktop from an official importer, like the Bosch PUE611BB5Y. If you have a sikon outlet or are willing to install one, the Electrolux EIV644 gives flexibility for the future. If your supply is three-phase, the Bosch PIE611BB5E delivers full power at a low price. If you cook a lot with large pans, consider Flex zones like on the Samsung NZ64B5067YH, or an ⁦80 cm⁩ cooktop.

A ⁦60 cm⁩ induction cooktop usually needs a countertop opening of about 56×⁦49 cm⁩, and an ⁦80 cm⁩ cooktop about 75×⁦49 cm⁩, but always check the model’s installation drawing.

Examples from product pages:

• Sauter SHI6510 and Hyundai HAS-I⁦404-1⁩P: 56×⁦49 cm⁩ cutout.
• Samsung NZ64B5067YH: 56×⁦48 cm⁩ cutout and ⁦5.8 cm⁩ depth.
• Electrolux EIV83443BW (⁦80 cm⁩): 75×⁦49 cm⁩ niche and ⁦5.5 cm⁩ depth.
• Bosch PUE611BB5Y: the appliance itself is 59.2×⁦52.2 cm⁩ and ⁦5.1 cm⁩ thick, and the store refers to the installation drawing.

Replacing a gas cooktop: the opening of an old gas cooktop doesn’t always fit. If it’s too large, there’s no good way to close it, and you’ll need a wider cooktop or a new countertop. If it’s too small, it can be enlarged with professional cutting. Measure before ordering.

Induction above a built-in oven: a common combination, but it needs ventilation clearance. Most manufacturers specify the minimum distance between the bottom of the cooktop and the oven in the installation instructions, and sometimes require a separating panel. If you’re buying a built-in oven and a cooktop together, ask the seller whether they’re suitable for installation one above the other.

Shared circuits: don’t connect the cooktop and the oven to the same line. An oven draws up to about ⁦3.5 kW⁩, and a full cooktop up to ⁦7.4 kW⁩.

Drawer under the cooktop: the cooktop has a cooling fan that exhausts air downward. Make sure there’s clearance between the bottom of the cooktop and the drawer contents, per the manufacturer’s instructions.

Shabbat mode doesn’t appear on the product pages of the induction cooktops we checked, so Shabbat-observant families who use induction on weekdays usually keep a Shabbat hot plate (plata) or another dedicated appliance for Shabbat.

If Shabbat mode on the cooktop matters to you, ask the seller for written halachic certification for the specific model. For questions about usage, consult a rabbi. Shabbat mode is much more common on ovens, and we cover it in our built-in oven guide.

Cookware: induction only works with pots whose base is magnetic. The simplest test is a fridge magnet: if it sticks firmly to the bottom, the pot works. Good stainless steel and cast iron usually work; regular aluminum and copper don’t. Many pots are marked with an induction symbol on the bottom.

Pot size: each zone detects a pot of a certain size. A pot that’s too small on a large zone may not be detected. On the Bosch PUE611BB5Y, per the product page, the zones are 14.5, 18, 18 and ⁦21 cm⁩. Use the large zone for the big Shabbat pot.

Noise: induction cooktops make a slight hum and have a cooling fan. That’s normal, especially at high power or with lightweight pots.

Cleaning: wipe with a damp cloth once the surface has cooled, and use a dedicated scraper for burnt spots. Don’t use steel wool.

Safety with children at home: on an induction cooktop the surface only heats from the pot, so it cools faster than a ceramic cooktop. Many models include a child lock, a residual-heat indicator that shows when the surface is still hot, and automatic shut-off when there’s no pot on the zone. Check the specs of your chosen model to see which of these it has, since they vary between manufacturers and series. These are real advantages over gas cooktops, which have an open flame and knobs that are easy to turn.

For an induction cooktop, an official importer is better, because faults in the electronic board or coils need a technician and original parts; in stores we also saw a popular model sold as not from the official importer.

According to the product pages:

• Bosch: warranty from BSH.
• Electrolux: warranty from Mini Line.
• Samsung (NZ64B5067YH): official importer, one-year warranty from Newpro.
• Sauter: one-year warranty from Electra.
• On the Samsung NZ64N7757FK product page at one store, it says the product is not from the official importer and the warranty comes from another company. That doesn’t mean the product is faulty, but service won’t be provided by the official importer.

Common problems and what to check before calling a technician:

• The cooktop doesn’t detect the pot: the pot isn’t magnetic or is too small for the zone.
• The breaker trips: the power is too high for the line or connection. Check power limiting, or consult an electrician.
• Zones reduce their own power: that’s normal on single-phase cooktops, which split power between zones.
• Error code: check the manual. Some codes refer to overheating or liquid on the panel.

If you’re renovating a whole kitchen, plan all the appliances together: cooktop, oven, dishwasher, microwave and fridge. Our best dishwasher, best microwave and best refrigerator guides cover the space and electrical requirements of each.

Recommended order of steps: check the connection size on your electricity bill, consult an electrician on the outlet type, choose a model that matches your supply and countertop opening, compare the final price, and install with a licensed electrician. That way you’ll get a cooktop that works at full capacity, without a breaker tripping in the middle of Shabbat cooking.

If you’re not sure, photograph the panel and the electricity bill and send them to an electrician before buying.